Training philosophy — the GAP NZ evidence-based approach
- Reward what you like (treats, play, pats, praise, access to door / sniff) to make it more likely. Prevent what you don't by managing the environment (crate / lead / pen — not unsupervised around dinner, sausages or chewables). No punishment, alpha rolls, choke / prong, or flooding.
- Short and frequent: 2 min while the kettle boils; several 5-min sessions beat one long one. 2–3×/day, end on success, one skill per session.
- Before each session: water + toilet opportunity. Take breaks for play / cuddle, read body language — enjoyment vs pressure.
- Marker = camera shutter: a click / "Yes!" pinpoints the exact centimetre of desired behaviour. E.g. leave-treat-under-hand: the dog moves 1 cm away → Yes! + a separate treat (not the covered one). Like a photo of the behaviour.
- Treats: fingernail-sized high-value — chicken, cheese, ham, sausage / dog roll, lung / liver, kibble soaked in sardine oil, chopped apple / carrot / banana. Experiment.
- Equipment: fixed lead, harness, basket muzzle, treat pouch. No flexi leads.
- Progression: only add distance / distraction / time at 80% reliable. Regression = go back one step. Raise criteria slowly (video diary day 16) and teach default behaviours (e.g. sit / look when unsure).
- Environment: home (no distractions) → garden → quiet street → slightly busier. Never busy / dog park first. See GAP NZ Training + the Old-School Myth-Busting PDF.
Session template (2 min)
- Set up: toileted, watered, treats ready, no visitors.
- Cue once, wait, mark & reward. Repeat 5–8 reps.
- End with an easy win + rest. Log what worked.
GAP mindset: "Rather than teaching independence, give security — independence grows naturally." Balance gradually increasing alone time while staying responsive. Training builds the trust and bond.
Priority 1 — Name, attention & settling (days 1–14)
| Skill | How to teach | Progression |
|---|---|---|
| Name = look at me | Say the name once in a happy voice. When they look: "Yes!" + treat. 5 reps, 2×/day. | Home → garden → quiet walk. Then add mild distraction. |
| Sit / hand touch | Hold a treat, lure to sit, mark. Hand target: palm out, touch = treat. | Hand target becomes the recall & positioning tool. |
| Settle / place | Reward lying on bed / mat. Say "Settle" when they flop. Treat between the paws. | Mat in the living room → "go to mat" for visitors and mealtimes. |
| Drop it / leave it | Trade: give a value item, "Drop it", treat. Practise with boring toys first. | Useful for stolen items & prey redirection. |
Settling is the superpower: a greyhound who can settle on a mat is easier to manage than one who knows 20 tricks.
Priority 2 — Alone time & crate (days 3–28)
Many racers struggle because kennel staff were always around and the bond is new. GAP NZ's four reasons: still bonding, temperament / anxiety, bored / frustrated, needs unmet. Build tolerance before you must leave for work. See 6. Learning to be left alone.
Crate as den — GAP NZ 4 steps
- Setup: XXL 120 cm in the lounge, soft bed / blankets, only bed at first, treats / chews / toys, feed meals in the crate (toilet after), kids and pets out.
- Introduce: after the house explore, crate + enrichment. Lure / gently guide if needed (most walk in). Calm treat drops without fuss. Reward calm and quiet.
- When to use: in the crate when not supervising (cooking etc.). Toilet every 2–3 h. Sleep overnight. Build alone 5 → 10 min calm / quiet. Max 4 h daytime without a break (a tool, not a convenience). If new and you must go out: backyard / toddler-proofed room / pen. Water bucket clipped.
- Phase out: door open to come / go at quiet supervised times. Many still choose the crate bed. Introduce another bed near the crate. Still use for visitor excitement / anxiety.
Crate FAQ: won't go in → lure with treats / toys, guide by collar + gentle pressure behind the legs, reward inside. Won't come out → fear: door open, own pace, side-on toss of treats in / out, never reach or force. Peed in crate → toilet sooner (2 h), watch signs (whining, door-staring, circling, standing, barking); if it continues, vet-check for UTI.
GAP NZ 3 prevention exercises (before real absences)
- Micro-absences: a chore list (loo, mail, shower, laundry, cooking). Scatter treats on leaving. Settled → progress longer. Easy recoveries.
- Toy tie-outs: a filled Kong on a rope tied to pen / crate / chair / deck. You go and do your own thing; the dog risks leaving you to work away → curiosity, confidence, risk-taking rewarded.
- Eat-away game: crate next to your dinner table, feed a portion there. Settled → move the crate further, then out of sight.
Before you leave for real — 3 needs (GAP NZ)
- Physical: exercise then time to settle (endorphins must come down). First walks (traffic / dogs) elevate anxiety — recovery time needed.
- Mental: 15 min of training split 3×5 (nose target, spin, chin rest, down / stay with distractions, out-of-sight stay) — builds trust and bond.
- Food-toy: a filled Kong / dispenser / cardboard box to do independently — only after 10 min of calm alone (otherwise distraction → panic when it's finished, or it predicts leaving).
Plus: loo before leaving · trial where they settle best (indoors quiet vs outdoors seeing triggers) · background radio / audiobook / classical music to mask traffic and dogs · calm reassurance ("good dog", gentle stroke, treats) — don't withhold affection · spread activities through the day · line up part-time care (friends, family, sitter, walker, other hound owners) if returning to work.
Alone-time ladder (while you're home)
| Step | Do | Advance when |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Absence cues | Put shoes / coat / keys on, treat, sit. Repeat until boring. | No whine / stare ×5. |
| 2. Micro-absences | Step out 10 sec → return calmly, treat calm. No fuss. | Calm ×5 at 30 sec. |
| 3. Build time | 30 sec → 1 → 2 → 5 → 10 → 20 min. Same room → garden → outside. | Calm at the current time ×3. |
| 4. Real absences | 10 → 20 → 40 → 60 min. Leave a safe chew, bed, water. Camera / phone check. | No bark / destruction ×3. |
Rules: always toilet + exercise before leaving. Leave before fret builds (don't wait for panic). Return before barking starts. Boring departures and returns. If panic >5 min, drop back a step and seek trainer advice — don't push through.
Separation signs: pacing, panting, drooling, howling / barking, destruction (doors / windows), toileting, self-injury. Log the timing and trigger; talk to the adoption group or a trainer early — Greyhound Trust has a separation & anxiety leaflet.
Priority 3 — Leash walking & muzzle (days 4–28)
GAP freezing rule: practise attention + loose-lead at home first. No walks for 3–7 days for many dogs. Quiet, familiar 1–2 spots, sniff at their own pace, distance to observe. Freezing = fear. See Freezing on Walks and video-diary days 11–12 (loose-lead + attention).
Muzzle training
- Hold the muzzle, treat for a sniff. Feed treats through the muzzle. Brief on (2 sec) → off + treat. Build to 5-min walks. Ensure it fits with panting and drinking.
- On walks: "Good muzzle" + treat. Never force it on.
Loose-lead walking
| Where | Goal | Technique |
|---|---|---|
| House / garden | Walk beside you, check-ins. | Treat every 2–3 steps near you. Change direction randomly. |
| Quiet street | 15–25 min sniffy walk. | Sniff = reward. Stop → wait. Pull → you stop, treat when the lead loosens. |
| Slightly busier | Distance from triggers. | Cross the street, treat for a calm look at a dog / person. Turn away if over threshold. |
- Sniffy walks beat long walks: 20 min of sniffing tires more than 60 min of marching.
- Two walks a day (Guide 2). On-lead always outdoors until recall & prey work are done.
- Pulling: don't jerk. Stop, wait, reward a loose lead. Practise in low-distraction first.
Priority 4 — Handling & cooperative care (days 5–28)
Essential for vet visits, thin skin and nails. Teach consent: if the dog pulls away, pause.
| Skill | Steps |
|---|---|
| Collar / lead on-off | Treat for a chin touch → collar touch → clip. Never chase or corner. |
| Teeth / ears | Lip lift 1 sec + treat → 3 sec → all teeth. Ear touch + treat. |
| Paws / nails | Paw hold + treat. Clip 1 nail → treat. Use large-dog clippers / a grinder. Stop if stressed. |
| Body / vet exam | Chest, belly, legs touch + treat. Practise on a non-slip mat. Muzzle training helps. |
| Brushing / coat | Soft brush, 1–2 min, treat. Check skin for tears and sores. |
Cooperative care: letting the dog "opt out" (turn their head away) = pause. Builds trust and safer vet handling.
Priority 5 — Stairs, floors, furniture, household (days 3–21)
- Stairs: treat up one step, down one. 2–3 steps a day. Rugs or a carpet runner. Never carry repeatedly.
- Slippery floors: runners, paw balm, slow introduction. Teach "wait" at doors and stairs.
- Doors / boundaries: "wait" at the front door (treat for a pause). Baby gates to manage access.
- Furniture: decide — dog bed only, or sofa / bed allowed? Be consistent from day 0 (GAP: off furniture at least 3 weeks). Use gates and blankets to teach.
- Kitchen / counters: mat training ("Settle") during meals. Reward calm on the mat.
- Household noises: vacuum, TV, washing machine — play at low volume, treat calm, increase gradually.
Priority 6 — Social, prey drive & recall (weeks 3–8)
Social Hound (GAP NZ): Relationship first → Children → Other animals → Other dogs. The first step is always secure attachment + slow integration. Fear / anxiety is normal. See Fear & Anxiety.
Socialisation vs. desensitisation
- Desensitise to everyday life at a distance (puppy-style socialisation doesn't apply). Let the dog observe and choose to investigate. Reward relaxed investigation; toss floor treats if hand-approach is scary.
- People / children: side-on, crouch or sit, turn away, no eye contact, no reaching over the head. All child interactions supervised at the dog's pace. GAP PDFs: Greyhounds & Children, Greyhounds & Cats, Dog Introductions via the Settling In page.
- Dogs: parallel walks at distance, muzzle on, no on-lead greetings. Teach "this way" to turn away. Dog parks are not for the first month. Video-diary days 11–12 built loose-lead / attention before dog socialising.
- Cats / small animals: only if the adoption group says cat-suitable. Separate rooms, baby gate, treat calm at distance. Never unsupervised until proven. "Chicken training" (video-diary days 24–28) is GAP's gradual cat / livestock proofing — follow their plan.
Extra gap wins (from the video diary)
- Nose-touch target (days 17–18): treat in hand → touch = mark. Super useful for positioning, recalls and the vet.
- Stand-on-something (days 17–18): confidence + body awareness.
- Whining / focus (day 19): reward quiet, add distractions slowly.
- Car training (days 22–23): treat-journey method, short trips first.
Prey drive
- See squirrel / cat at distance → "this way" + treat for turning. Distance is your friend.
- Practise in a secure garden: "leave it" + trade games. Use muzzle + long line (not to yank — to prevent the chase).
- Never test off-lead near livestock or wildlife. A greyhound's sprint is faster than you.
Recall (only in a fully secure area)
- Start: name → treat. Always reward recall (never call to end fun).
- Distance: 1 m → 3 m → 5 m in the garden. Long line attached.
- Only progress when 90% reliable and in an enclosed space. Most owners stay on-lead for life in public — that's responsible.
The 4–8 week progressive plan
| Week | Focus | Sessions / day | Milestone |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Name, settle, crate den, toilet, muzzle. | 2 × 2–3 min | Looks at name, enters crate voluntarily, toilets outside 50%+. |
| 2 | Alone ladder to 1–2 min, loose-lead home / garden, sit / hand touch. | 2–3 × 3 min | Calm at a 1-min absence, leads on / off calmly. |
| 3 | Stairs, handling (teeth / paws), quiet street walks, visitor greeting. | 2–3 × 3–5 min | Stairs with treats, tolerates a teeth check, calm visitor. |
| 4 | Alone to 10–20 min, "this way" for prey, drop it. | 2 × 5 min | Leaves the house 10 min calmly, turns from a distraction at distance. |
| 5–6 | Handling complete, settle on mat for meals, recall in garden. | 2 × 5 min | Nails / ears with consent, settles on cue, recall at 3 m in the garden. |
| 7–8 | Slightly busier walks, real absences 30–60 min, enrichment puzzles. | Maintenance | 1 h absence calm, walks loose on quiet streets. |
Exercise: 2 × 20–30 min walks a day + indoor sniff games. No endurance running, no repeated sprinting, no dog-park wrestling (injury risk for thin skin and bones).
Enrichment, feeding & common behaviours
Enrichment (10–15 min / day)
Snuffle mat, muffin-tin treat search, cardboard-box shredding, lick mat (yoghurt / thin peanut butter), puzzle feeder. Safe chews supervised only. Rotate toys. No small balls; no bones unsupervised.
| Behaviour | Do |
|---|---|
| Chewing furniture | Redirect to a chew, management (gates), exercise, teething check. Don't scold after the fact. |
| Counter surfing | Keep counters clear, mat training, reward four paws down. |
| Jumping / mouthing | Stand still, treat when calm. Teach sit for hello. |
| Barking | Identify the trigger (noise, alone, visitor). Manage distance, teach settle, log patterns. |
| Resource guarding | Never take food / toys by force. Trade up. Talk to a trainer / adoption group early. |
Seek a certified trainer / vet if: biting, repeated guarding, panic when alone for >1 week, inability to handle for vet care, prey chasing you can't redirect, or house-training regression after reliability.
Quick reference — treat & session tracker
| Date | Skill | Reps / result | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Name | |||
| Settle | |||
| Alone ladder | |||
| Loose lead | |||
| Handling |
Resources — GAP NZ + further reading
| Read / watch | Why |
|---|---|
| Training / Behavioural Advice | Marker, 2-min sessions, Basic Manners, Social Hound. |
| 6. Learning to be left alone | Micro-absences, tie-outs, eat-away, physical → mental → food-toy. |
| 4. Crate Training | The full 4-step den plan + FAQ. |
| Social Hound | Relationship → children → animals → dogs. |
| 2. Fear and Anxiety | Body language + how to help. |
| 7. Freezing on Walks | Walks without fear. |
| Video Diary | Training games, car, chicken, sleep routines. |
Training FAQs
How long can a greyhound be left in a crate?
GAP NZ's rule: the crate is a tool, not a convenience — no more than 4 hours during the day without a break for a toilet trip and a stretch. Overnight sleep in the crate is fine. Clip a water bucket to the crate for longer daytime stretches, and never use the crate as punishment.
How do I teach my greyhound to be left alone?
Start before you actually need to leave: micro-absences (shower, letterbox, laundry), toy tie-outs (a filled Kong tied where the dog can work away from you), and the eat-away game (feed the crate next to your table, then gradually further away). Before real absences give physical exercise, then mental training, then a food toy — and only after 10 minutes of calm alone. See the alone-time ladder.
How do you train a greyhound to walk on a leash?
Practise attention and loose-lead skills at home first — the GAP freezing rule says no street walks for the first 3–7 days. Then quiet familiar routes, sniffing at the dog's pace: 20 minutes of sniffing tires more than 60 minutes of marching. If the dog pulls, stop and wait; reward a loose lead. Freezing is fear, not stubbornness — shorten the walk and go back a step.
Why do greyhounds need a muzzle, and how do I train it?
Thin skin makes greyhounds fragile in dog scuffles, racing kennels often never taught dog-to-dog manners, and most adoption groups require muzzles in public at first (GAP supplies many). Train it happily: feed treats through the muzzle, brief on-off pairs, never force it on, and check it allows full panting and drinking.
Can you ever let a greyhound off the lead?
Only inside a fully secure enclosure, and only once recall is 90%+ reliable. A greyhound can hit 60+ km/h — faster than you — and prey drive overrides training. Many responsible owners keep greyhounds on-lead for life in public, using a long line (harness attached) for sniffing freedom.
How long should training sessions be with a greyhound?
2–5 minutes, 2–3 times a day — a session while the kettle boils beats a half-hour grind. End on an easy win, one skill per session, and only add distance, distraction or duration when the current step is 80% reliable. Greyhounds are intelligent but sensitive: reward calm, don't push through stress.